I was standing on a foot bridge from Nakasu stretching out across
the river toward a night market that happens every Saturday during
July and August in Fukuoka. There were DJs and stalls selling beer
from different countries, but I just go to walk around and look at
the artists who sit or kneel along the bridge barriers painting
impromptu works handing business cards to interested spectators. A
guy I've met before is playing guitar - his name is Ogawa. He loves
the Delta blues having traveled a lot of Europe and Asia but only
discovering his favorite genre after spending 3 months in New
Orleans, luckily before the hurricane hit. The Japanese passport
allows a maximum of 90 days on tourist visa, and he had heard about
the music scene there and literally spent every single day playing
on the streets and meeting people. Unfortunately, he only plays
instrumental guitar pieces in unusual tunings - I think everyone
should sing especially if you play the guitar, but I understand
because for about 15 years I only played instrumental pieces too.
So I'm standing on this foot bridge looking down at all the
reflections of neon advertisements rippling and reforming below in
the black water and an older Japanese man chooses to lean on the
bridge railing to my left hanging his elbows over the side just like
I am. He says, "That river boat is drinking boat. Many
tourists drink. Eh? Many Chinese tourists go and drink. But that
boat is just tour boat." He gestures toward a narrow river craft
docked under an old faded sign that reads "Paaty Liba" in Japanese.
I asked him in Japanese if he'd ever ridden in either of them, and
he shook his head saying, "So many Korean, Chinese, only. No
Japanese ever do." I said, "Fukuoka is an international city!" he
nodded and then walked away dabbing his forehead with a silk
handkerchief pulled from his suit jacket.
For some reason I think of my friend Andy who always is much more
adventurous when speaking with strangers or colleagues he meets for
the first time. He has this technique thats guaranteed to make an
impression on anyone regardless of whether or not they're an English
speaker. It starts with some typical conversation about where
you're from and what you're doing, but then the first time you
struggle to produce some kind of information: a word or a memory or
a mutual friend or place, Andy will insert a joke that 100% of the
time confuses the other person for at least a second or two, and
then he laughs. Andy always laughs this smoky, guttural,
open mouth grin that instantly cures any discomfort and puts you at
ease. Your mind tells you, "Well that was close. I think I might
have missed something, but this guy saved me. Thanks friend!" And
then inescapably, you like Andy. By the way, Andy is from Buenos
Aires.
I'll give you an example. I was riding in a ski gondola going up
the mountain with Andy and a Japanese ski instructor who I had just
met named Satoshi. Satoshi is 10 years older than me and 15 years
older than Andy, so using some basic English Satoshi gathers where
Andy is from and how much he loves skiing.
Andy asks, "What do you do during the summer?"
Satoshi says, "In Summer? Golf! I work here. Golf course."
Andy says, "Oh golf! You're outside all year then!"
Satoshi says, "Yes! Winter and summer! Is fun! Walking around t
ō (and), Hitting ball, t
ō (and) drinking beer t
ō (and) -"
Satoshi begins gesturing with two fingers toward his lips which is
the international signal for smoking a cigarette.
Andy says, "Sucking cock?"
Satoshi makes a confused face clearly recognizing at least one of
the two words and looks to me for translation, but I'm
adjusting my goggles and looking out the window posturing as though
I was lost in some deep thoughts throughout this whole exchange.
Satoshi says, "Please what? One more time please?"
Andy says, "Sucking a cock!" and makes the international signal for
oscillating a dick between your lips using one hand.
Satoshi's face contorts to a mysterious cocktail of both complete
understanding and complete non-understanding - and then Andy laughs
deep and long creating a remarkable resonance as the sound is echoed
off the fiberglass windows.
Satoshi says, "Whaaaaaat! No no no no no! Absolutely no! You
crazy!"
I finally say, "Smoking cigarettes and drinking beer?" and Satoshi
says, "Yes! Smoking! No cock!" Andy reaches over and gives him a
few hard pats on the shoulder saying, "I know I know! I was fucking
with you!" then laughs again, and Satoshi laughs as well.
Now this is something I would never say to anyone, let alone a newly
met co-worker. Let alone a Japanese person while I'm a guest in
Japan. Let alone a much more experienced expert in the field who is
10 years older than me! But that is Andy and it gets 'em every
time.
Later on, I saw Satoshi down in the staff cafeteria sitting across
from me a few seats away, and he bows slightly as he places his tray
on the table saying: Tsukaredesss, which is an abbreviated
form of a Japanese word that kind of means "you're working hard" but
its used as hello, thank you, good bye, good morning, or
pretty much anytime you feel like it. Then Andy walks by, and
theres no seats left for him at our table, but when they catch each
others' eye they grin simultaneously, Andy nodding his head upward
lifting his eyebrows as if asking, So how was your morning??
and Satoshi vigorously shaking his head back and forth saying,
"No no no no no!" Andy does the same laugh while walking to another
table, and Satoshi grins at me still shaking his head and says,
"That Andy is so crazy! So so funny!"